Midsummer in Norway and the Scottish Isles Aboard M/S Serenissima 21 June to 3 July 2018,Compiled by: Brian Seenan
Midsummer in Norway and the Scottish Isles
Aboard M/S Serenissima
21 June to 3
July 2018
Thursday 21 June 2018, Aberdeen.
WELCOME
ABOARD!
A
stiff breeze was blowing as we boarded M/S Serenissima in Aberdeen, but a glass
of bubbly and afternoon tea soon distracted us from the weather – an excellent
way to get in the mood for a cruise.
Our First Officer,
Duje Mic, provided the mandatory Safety Briefing and everyone was issued with a
lifejacket at the muster stations. Emma, our Expedition Leader, welcomed
everyone aboard and introduced her team of three South Africans, three Scots
and Ian, from Kodiac Island in Alaska.
The breeze
was freshening as we left the harbour and we caught sight of the new wind farm
being constructed off the coast. This is the wind farm that is upsetting
President Trump, as it is visible from his luxury golf course, north of
Aberdeen.
The swell
picked up as we headed out into The North Sea. Nobody was concerned until some
wine glasses started to tip over at the end of dinner. That was a signal for
most of us to get an early night. The captain altered course to minimise roll
and we settled down for a lumpy night at sea.
Friday 22 June 2018, Kirkwall, Orkney
A
calm but misty morning greeted us as we passed the Isle of Shapinsay, on the
approaches to Kirkwall.
This
morning we will be taking three buses to visit Skara Brae and the Ring of
Brodgar. Having reduced speed to compensate for the high winds, we arrived a
bit behind schedule. The guided tour of St Magnus Cathedral was dropped as we
had plenty of time to visit the cathedral during free time in the afternoon.
At
Skara Brae we saw that a highly organised civilization was operating here over
3,000 years ago. The remains provide enough detail to fuel our imagination as
to how life was lived, so long ago. The level of craftsmanship and attention to
detail in the construction is astonishing.
The
The Ring of
Brodgar showed that life and social structures were sophisticated – a huge
number of people had to be released from the job of securing food to be able to
build this incredible structure. Just digging out the ditch would have been a
mo
numental
task, with just bones and stones as tools - this site pre-dates the Iron Age.
The orientation and pinpoint accuracy of the ring shows there was detailed
knowledge of seasons and lunar cycles. There was expertise to transport massive
slabs of rock for miles across country. Neolithic Orkney is breathtaking.
After lunch
we had time to relax and stretch our legs around Kirkwall. St Magnus Cathedral
was the place to visit, amid rehearsals for a concert that was taking place in
the evening. We had a chance to sample Orkney’s renowned ice cream, but with
the chill in the air, a wee dram of Scapa or Highland Park was possibly a more
appealing option
If St Magnus Cathedral was
being constructed today, it would be acclaimed for its grandeur, architecture
and scale, never mind being conceived and built centuries ago. The local people
wouldn’t have seen such a structure before, never mind know what to make of it
as it rose up in front of them.
Captain Étien Bonačić welcomed
us aboard Serenissima with a cocktail party. He promised to keep us safe on our
voyage and promised that the next part of our trip, heading north to Shetland,
would be more comfortable than last night.
Saturday 23 June 2018, Lerwick, Shetland
Around 7am we docked in
Lerwick, meaning “muddy bay” from the Old Norse Leirvik. Lerwick welcomed us
with heavy rain, but we weren’t going to be put off by that. After the ship was
cleared, we joined our buses and headed off for the historic tour to Jarlshof.
On the edge of Lerwick we
passed the well-preserved Clickimin Broch. Like all brochs, it’s function and
role is still broadly debated; was it a dwelling, a fortress, a storage
facility? Experts have answers, but they are all different!
Through the
mist we caught a glimpse of Mousa Broch across the Mousa Sound.
Continuing south, we stopped
above Spiggie Beach, looking out towards Foula. The beach is a safe haven for
seals. From our high vantage point we got great views of seals basking on the
sand.
We reached the ancient
settlement of Jarlshof, which was uncovered after a violent storm in 1897. A
cold wind whistled around the ruins and a light rain added to the feel of
mystery and ages past as we explored the ancient site, which dates back before
the Bronze and Early Iron Ages.
After an hour exploring
Jarlshof we boarded the coaches and headed back to Lerwick. The rain lifted on
the way back, leaving us free to explore the town without getting soaked.
The town was unusually quiet,
possibly drawing breath from too many huge cruise ships. The Shetland Museum
proved very popular with its vivid record of life in Lerwick and the
surrounding area, and its attachment to the sea.
We set sail
for Norway with mist hanging around the ship, the occasional gannet and fulmar
passed by to check us out, as guillemots desperately tried to get into the air
ahead of us.
Sunday 24 June 2018, Haugesund, Norway
A last minute
change to where we would pick up our pilot added an extra 30 Nm to our journey,
but it allowed us to cruise northwards in the channel towards Haugesund.
Some of us spent the time
touring the engine room. It proved what the captain had spoken about.
Serenissima’s engine is a one-off. Goodness knows how many sea miles it has
covered.
Colin kept us amused with his
talk “Norway – Is it really just Waterfalls and Vikings?” while an official
cleared the ship into Norway.
We berthed at the new facility
to receive cruise ships in Haugesund, a town which grew up around the narrow,
safe passage that ships have used for centuries as the “North Way” which led to
the name Norway.
After
another excellent lunch with a highlight of superbly presented roast flank
(remember, it is Sunday) we prepared to visit the homeland of the Viking Kings
on Karmøy island, opposite Haugesund.
The site at Avaldsnes was, for
centuries, the centre of Viking civilization in Norway. It is shrouded in myth
and legend, blood and gore, commerce and love.
The walk to the Viking Village
was tricky underfoot as it dropped down towards the sea. The village
reconstructs life in Viking days. The long house had an elegant shingle roof
and a welcome fire, which had some of us dosing off as we listened to the local
guide, clad in Viking dress. The reindeer covers on the bed were equally
tempting. Outside, the outhouses showed the variety of forms that buildings
might have taken. The boathouse, like an inverted boat itself, was a
particularly splendid interpretation of how buildings might have looked with
boat building skills being used on land.
The Nordvegen history Centre is
an interesting mix of modern architecture housing a story of ancient history.
Exploring myth and recorded history, a film tells the tale of how the Norwegian
lands were brought together under Harald Fiarhair. Piecing it together wasn’t
very easy, as few of us know much about Norwegian mythology. The exhibits after
the film expanded the convoluted tale.
St Olav’s
Church, the symbol of the unification of Norway, has sat prominently on this
site since 1250AD and is still very much in use today. It is a hefty, solid
structure and looks as if it will be here for centuries to come. The obelisk
outside, named “The Sewing Needle of the Virgin Mary”, has become part of local
mythology. A saga says “The day of Judgement will come when the stone comes in
contact with the church wall.” Stories are told that part of the obelisk has
been hewn away, to lessen the chances.
Back in Haugesund, a few of us
strolled along the pedestrian shopping street, virtually deserted, as is usual
on a Sunday. Had we been here 24 hours earlier, we would have contended with a
throng of folks and kids doing their shopping before preparing for a family
Sunday. Norwegians like their leisure time and shopping is low priority; it
cannot compete with ski-ing, boating or generally getting outdoors.
Monday 25 June 2018, Hardangerfjord, Norway
We arrived
in the early hours and dropped anchor off Rosendal, on Hardangerfjord, the
third largest fjord in Norway.
The focus of the morning is a
walk from Sunndal to Lake Bondhus, sitting below a retreating glacier. Coaches
took us into Maurangerfjord, an arm off the main fjord, passing the Langfoss
waterfall which cascades over and under the road. In winter, the amount of
water is substantially reduced as it is locked up as ice. The road around the
waterfall is covered in a sheet of solid ice; no wonder Norwegians use studded
tyres.
The weather
was perfect for a walk, with a light breeze to keep us cool. The lake was
idyllic but the glacier was hidden by low cloud. Huge boulders were strewn down
the whole valley, some still very angular having been plucked off the valley
walls and not transported far by the glacier. The elusive glacier is a tiny
remnant of the massive glacier that would have carved the valley; that ice
would have been about 3Km deep.
After the walk we returned to
Sunndal and tucked into mjølkekake, potato cakes and waffles laced with
strawberry compote and cream. Cruising is hard work.
After lunch, a Zodiac shuttle
service took us ashore to meet Ian who took a party to the Barony Gardens. An
unexpected entrance fee put paid to the visit, but some guests used their
cunning to circumvent payment and enjoyed the garden.
Another group joined Brian in
the Steinenparken where an eclectic mix of rocks awaited us. The brainchild of
two artists, the visit is more sculptural than geological.
Many of the rocks were
transported by glaciation to this site. Others were imported as exhibits for
the park from as far afield as China.
The revelation of the visit was
the effect of polishing rocks. A dull and boring boulder on the outside
presents spectacular surfaces and facets on the inside, when polished. Each
piece was unique and some samples were rare.
It was a insight into what lies
at our feet, if viewed differently. The spectacular surfaces we saw would be
more popular if it wasn’t for the expense of cutting and polishing rock with
diamond-encrusted saws and buffs.
Tuesday 26 June 2018, Bergen, Norway
At
around 7am we docked in Bergen, “the gateway to the Fjords”. After the ship was
cleared, we joined our buses for a tour of the city.
Bergen is Norway’s second
largest city. It doesn’t feel like a big city; it’s more a collection of
discrete pockets, with houses and roads hugging the fjord, spilling over
hillocks and creeping up the surrounding slopes.
Troldhaugen is the home of
Norway’s most famous composer, Edvard Grieg. We visited his house and gardens.
We were treated to a private recital of his music overlooking the water. The
atmosphere gave us an appreciation of the inspiration he must have felt to
compose his music.
After enjoying some free time
we returned to Bergen’s city centre for a guided walk through the Hanseatic
Quarters and the Bryggen, which was destroyed in a fire in the 18th century.
Around lunchtime, the remaining
clouds burned off and we felt the heat of the sun for the first time. It was
perfect for a walk along the harbour, back around the Hanseatic Quarter and
into the fish market. The market is usually busy, but with two large cruise
ships in town, the buzz was amplified. Traders were vying for business, selling
fresh fish and serving delicious fish, crab, lobster and mussels.
In the late afternoon Brian
gave a talk on the “elusive” geology of Norway. He showed how the simple
geological map of Norway hides an enormous complexity with ancient rocks
buckled, folded and uplifted to reach Himalayan heights. Even the best
geological brains can’t explain why there is virtually no trace of 400 Million
years of geological activity after the mountain building
period or why the tops of
Norway’s mountains are flat. At least everyone agrees that glaciation produced
the stunning scenery we are enjoying.
Wednesday 27 June 2018, Flåm, Norway
The highlight of the day is a
spectacular train ride from Flåm to Vatnahalsen.
After dropping anchor at the
head of Aurlandsfjord, a branch of the Sognefjord, we had a short Zodiac
transfer to Flåm and the train station. The train left exactly on
time and we started up the steep inclines into the valley.
Narrow waterfalls cascaded down
the rock faces to join the main river, which has been deviated through conduits
to pass under the rail tracks instead of building bridges. The track follows a
winding route, clinging to the valley edge and tunneling into the rock where
the walls are too sheer. The track even carves a U-turn inside one tunnel.
We were lucky with the weather.
Rain and low clouds are normal in this area but we had cloudless skies and warm
sunshine, which picked out the trees, the odd farmhouse and made the rock walls
glisten.
At Vatnahalsen, we left the
train for a walk, to enjoy the broad views and to tuck into the local hotel’s
famed waffles. We discovered what makes them so popular; they are served with
an incredible raspberry compote. Topped off with cream, they are irresistible.
Returning to the waterfall, the
haunting melodies and dance of the Huldre aimed to seduce our male passengers.
They were reminded of their station in life by watchful wives or they were
checking for a tail, which Huldre keep carefully hidden. Their tails maintain
their beauty … then fall off when they marry!
The sunny weather was perfect
for an afternoon stroll around Flåm.
We lifted the anchor and headed
for Nærøyfjord, a narrow finger of Sognefjord. The benefit of being in a small
ship became clear as the big ship that was in Flåm
fell away behind us. Big cruise ships can’t navigate the Nærøyfjord.
The views were breathtaking,
with ever bend in the fjord revealing rugged cliffs, vast peaks and cascading
waterfalls. Tiny patches of pasture clung to the base where scree had fallen.
The fjord narrowed and narrowed and we wondered if we might get through.
We anchored at the head of
Nærøyfjord. The mountains marking the end of the fjord towered above us,
streaked with waterfalls that thinned to mist as they fell.
The day finished with a BBQ
served on the Aft Deck, allowing incredible views as we ate. The beef, chicken,
lamb and pork were cooked to perfection, but the banana poached in rum, sugar
and butter was to die for!
Thursday 28 June 2018, Nærøyfjord, Sognefjord, Balestrand, Norway
A short Zodiac ride took us to
the town of Gudvangen where a village replicating Viking life has been built in
the last year. People of Viking heritage, or with a passion for their way of
life, have come from around the world to the village, living the old ways.
Two guides spun stories of life
in the past as we walked through the village, which still has the fresh smell
of newly cut wood. We tried axe throwing and archery and chatted to some of the
“inhabitants”, like the bone carver who comes from North West England, or the
Spanish girl who claims she was taken to the village as a slave!
This was possibly a unique
chance to see this venture before it becomes commercialised and crowded, which
is almost inevitable given its quality.
We headed back down Nærøyfjord
and once again soaked up the grandeur of the fjord and its surroundings. We
rejoined Sognefjord where Brian pointed out areas of interest.
With last minute phone calls to
check if the church and museum could be opened, Emma secured a late afternoon
visit to Balestrand on the north shore of the fjord. A leisurely stroll around
the town and along the front, by the hotel, was enough for guests who wanted to
make sure we got back before the kick-off of the England- Belgium football
match at 20.00hrs. Let’s not mention the score!
Friday 29 June 2018, Bygstad and Dalsfjorden,
Norway
There wasn’t a cloud in the sky
as we berthed at Bygstad. Our buses climbed out of the valley and joined the
main road from Kistiansand to Trondheim. Parts of this route still need a
ferry, as completing the road would cost a fortune. Our route will be a loop
through Førde, Viksdalen and Sande before returning to Bygstad, taking in a few
of the area’s 28 waterfalls.
Førde is the commercial centre
of the area and a shopper’s paradise; its centre is teeming with shops. The
shipyard dominates west of the town while very large, and expensive, houses are
being built east of the town.
At Sunnfjord Museum we got a
glimpse life in the 1800s. Some of the buildings date back as far as the 1500s.
We were free to explore the site while guides, stationed at specific buildings,
explained their role and function. The overhang cuts in the wooden foundations
and the gap between the steps and the door to stop mice getting in, were
ingenious. The schoolhouse was charming and you could imagine what it was like
when school was in. It was still in use in 1959. Three old, but still seaworthy
boats were stored under the boathouse.
We stopped for a quick walk and
photo stop at the Huldefossen waterfall.
The scenery was stunning as we
climbed to a viewpoint high above the spectacular Haukdalsvatnet Lake where we
had another photo stop.
The silver bridge over
Likholefossen (Literally - Dead Man Cave Waterfall) let us see the power of the
water passing underneath. The flow was less than usual due to low rainfall;
what would it be like when the river is swollen?
At the Edal Farm we met the
charming Henning and his wife Marit who is the 13th generation of the same family
on the farm. After a light lunch of open sandwiches and apple cake, Henning
stood on a chair and regaled us with stories of life on the farm. It was
delightful.
The road followed the River
Gaular towards Viksdalvatnet where we stopped to visit the wooden church of
Hestad, before returning to the ship.
We left Dalsfjorden in glorious
sunshine and Brian pointed out places of interest, particularly
Laukelandsfossen, a 135m high waterfall, which we passed by closely, and the
532metre span of the Dalsfjordbrua bridge.
Cruising doesn’t get much
better than this!
Saturday 30 June 2018, Runde and Ålesund, Norway
We
arrived at Runde at 06.30am and faced a cold wind as we watched the birds swoop
off the ledges on vertical cliffs to forage.
Gannets
were the most plentiful, along with common gulls, puffins, guillemots and
razorbills. A second pass of the cliffs was followed by a hasty retreat to the
warmth of the Venice Restaurant and breakfast.
Three
groups struggled through the hordes from the Carnival ship and set off to see
Ålesund.
The devastating fire of 1904,
which wiped out Ålesund was the catalyst for the Art-Nouveau-style rebuilding
that took place. The lack of work in the building trade in Norway, at that
time, was a saviour for Ålesund. Men from as far afield as Oslo came in search
of work, accepting low rates of pay. The gap between what the insurance paid and
the actual cost, which was borne by individuals, was as low as possible.
The Timemachine presentation in
the Swan Pharmacy provided a clear and lightly amusing overview of events
before and after the fire.
A warning that the beer at the
top of the Kniven viewpoint was the most expensive in Ålesund was an adequate
deterrent to taking on its 418 step climb.
With
not a cloud in the sky, we slipped our berth at 13.00hrs and set sail for
Brønnøysund, 267 nautical miles to the north.
After the football, Pierre gave
his talk “Viking Ships: A Thousand Year Love affair for Sailors”.
Sunday 1 July 2018, Brønnøysund, Torghatten, Vega
Island, Norway
A short deviation, requested by
our pilot, added to our sail time to Brønnøysund. We took buses to Torghatten
and the hiking group headed up the trail, discovering that the climb was steep
but firm underfoot. It wasn’t long until we reached the edge of the spectacular
hole in the mountain; it was worth every step. The views through the hole and
beyond, and back over the trail were stunning
Brian tried to fob us off with
the idea that ice and water had eroded a local weakness in the granite,
creating the huge hole. Pierre’s version of events was much more credible – a
knight troll spying and chasing a (possibly naked) young maiden, decided to
kill her if he couldn’t have her for himself. His arrow pierced a king’s hat
that was thrown into the path of the knight’s deadly arrow just as the sun rose
and they all turned to stone - perfectly logical, reasonable and somehow
compelling.
A separate group explored the
local flora with Ian, a much more genteel activity and completely troll-free.
We retuned to the ship to enjoy
sushi and an oriental-inspired lunch.
Serenissima repositioned to
Vega Island and anchored a long way out. The zodiacs took us down the shallow
channel to the hamlet of Nes. Some
passengers
sampled the innovative use of seaweeds, gathered and dried on other islands. A
local favourite of caviar in white chocolate was generally regarded as an
acquired taste.
Other activities included a
visit to the eider museum, a look in the World Heritage Centre, a walk along
the foreshore and tea and coffee with lefse or waffles; a surprising choice for
such a tiny locale.
Captain Étien Bonačić hosted a
Farewell Cocktail Party in the Andrea Lounge. Emma thanked him and his crew for
guiding us safely through the voyage and he, in turn, thanked Emma and her team
for looking after our guests.
During dinner we passed by the
Seven Sisters, a spectacular range of peaks on the Alsten Island. Later on we
marked the crossing of the Arctic Circle with an impromptu party on the
observation deck, Emma’s team wearing an eclectic mix of Santa, Elf and Donkey
costumes as they were all she could find!!!
After midnight the moon came up
and sat over the mountains and a large glacier, pastel-pale in the low arctic
sunlight.
Monday 2 July 2018, Lofoten Islands, Norway
Thick mist hid the islands from
us, but the sun broke through as we approached Reine, uncovering a magical view
that was emphatically Lofoten.
A busy day is scheduled with a
visit to Nusfjord, a charming fishing hamlet that has UNESCO World Heritage
status. As in Riene, we will see wooden racks for drying fish, which is mainly
exported.
A visit to the glassblower’s
studio is scheduled as well as a visit to the Viking Museum at Borg to enjoy a
lunch of lamb stew.
The last leg of our tour will
be a scenic drive to Svolvær where Serenissima will be waiting to take us to
Tromsø, our final destination, but not before we slip into the stunning
Trollfjord.
Tomorrow we sadly say
farewell, but reading this log reminds us how much we have done in such a
short time. It has been a great pleasure looking after you. Emma and her
expedition team hope you have had an awesome and memorable time.
We look forward to seeing you
again, aboard Serenissima or any of Noble Caledonia’s ships.
Bon Voyage!!!
PS We enjoyed excellent
weather for most of the cruise. As passengers
are responsible for the
weather, you should congratulate
yourselves for
doing such a great job!
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